While chimichurri is a classic accompaniment to steak, it's also used as a go-to flavouring for just about any kind of meat dish in Argentina, from choripan (grilled chorizo) to meat empanadas. During my travels in the country, chimichurri was a constant presence. It hit my nose during a walk at the San Telmo Fair, an antique fair held in Buenos Aires on Sundays. It was in a jar on the counter of a choripan vendor at the entrance of the Bombonera, the Boca Juniors football stadium. It was on tasting tables of the Mendoza region's vineyards; at road-side restaurants throughout the desert highlands of Salta and Jujuy; and near an open fire cooking cordero al palo (slow-roasted lamb) amidst Patagonian winds. It was everywhere.